Lift FS Off Trailer

Ahoy!  This is FS 3430 with a question.  I must inspect the centerboard, which I can't do on my trailer.  I have two wonderful 24" diameter healthy Oak Trees that are 30' Apart.  I have two 30,000 lb rated towing straps, one to belt Oak Tree 1 and lift the bow hook of the FS.  Great, now free from the fore end of the trailer. 
The other strap would belt the other Oak Tree and hook to the transom "rings".  Are those rings rated to lift the boat?
I have the racing lifting hardware installed on the centerboard trunk, but this seems to be set up for a single overhead hoist to weight the boat, perhaps that would not be as good as using the transom "rings"
Thougths before I make a fool fo myself.

James,
I would check with Harry before lifting the Scot with anything other than the lifting bridle.  I suspect neither the bow handle nor the transom rings would safely support the weight.  Moreover you need a way to lower the board while the boat is suspended.  Not a good idea.
The best way to inspect the centerboard is to remove it.  Launch the Scot and when at the dock, lower the board.  Attach a loop of wire or rope around the centerboard lifting roller.  Unsecure the centerboard wire/hauling line and remove it from the lifting roller.  Do not remove the centerboard/well rollers.  Use the loop of wire/rope to lift the board out of the well.  It's heavy so have at least one other helper.
Good luck.

Forget the trees.
I don't think the stern rings are built for that weight.  Neither is the bow eye.  
If I couldn't do this in water, my approach would be this:
Hook trailer to car/truck.  Release winch strap.  Tie the stern rings to a tree directly behind the boat with solid rope.  Place a cinder block support under the stern - 6-8 cinder blocks ( even lift the boat up an inch or two to lift onto the blocks - use plywood to adjust height and to prevent an scraping hull )  
Slowly !  Pull truck forward, letting the boat stay in place.  Friends on either side of boat for stability.  Get centerboard clear of trailer.  So, now bow is sitting toward back of trailer, stern of boat is on blocks.  Buds are holding boat steady.  Jump on boat, slowly lower centerboard to ground.  Disconnect cable or centerboard sheave.  Pull centerboard up and out.  It's heavy and awkward !  Read that again.  Have some heavy blankets or better, floatation seats ready to lay the CB on.  Lay CB down.  
Have buddy's move to stern.  While you back up SLOWLY, have them exert pressure to keep boat still or to push forward back onto trailer.
This is not ideal but it should work.  Ideally, if you could borrow two boat stands for the aft, I'd do everything exactly the same as above.  This is how I removed my boat from the trailer and onto boat stands.  Worked great !
Good luck.  Be smart.  Be safe.  If you are anxious or unsure about this - don't do it.  
 
 

You can lift the board out using Glenn's Method.  I have used the halyard as an aid.  Here is a video.
Taking the boat off of the trailer is really easy.  It will just slide off.  Phil has a pretty good method of getting the boat back on the trailer.  An alternative way to do it is to make a note of where the bow is located before you tip it over.  While the boat is on its side put the first roller, the one at the back, of the trailer where the bow was when it was upright.  As you roll the boat back up the bow will land on the first roller.  The trailer should not be connected to the car for this operation.
Be careful rolling the boat over on its side.  If you lose control LET IT GO.  I have heard stories of people grabbing shrouds and severely cutting their fingers.  You should be doing this on soft ground so the boat should roll back on its own safely.  The second warning is to make sure that your centerboard is up.  I have seen them snap off because people forgot to put them back up.

I have used Glenn's method to take out the board.  The second method seems like a lot of work.  I have also launched the boat onto the grass, raised the mast and then used a rope to pull the boat over.  You tie the line just above the shrouds on the mast.  I then use a 50 lb sandbag on the top of the mast to hold the boat on its side.
This allows you to check out the board, and work on the bottom, or change the gasket if needed.  If you are going to do the work, you may as well fix all the variables while you can get to them.
Removing the board is tricky on its side, as it will wedge in the trunk.  You need two people to remove it easily.  You only need it down part way to fix any dings, since they are usually in the leading edge.  That said it is easier to work on it out of the boat.  Be careful not to "improve" the profile, as the factory profile is the only class-legal shape.
The bow eye and stern rings are not meant to hold the weight of the boat.  Don't get under it.
Phil

Sawyer - I like your idea and have done that on a shoreline while boat is in the water and rolled her on her side to do mast work etc.
With that method on land, how do you re-load the boat back onto the trailer ?
I am going to paint my bottom and have always rolled her back and used the trailer to hold the bow in conjunction with (2) boat stands to hold the aft steady... 
If you could provide an EZ way to get the boat back on the trailer, I'd use your method... 
 
 

To get the boat back on the trailer, i always launch it onto a slightly convex hump in my yard.  I slide it off onto a heavy plastic tarp, which i put soapy water on.  It's just like launching into water, but you have to steady the boat side to side, so it doesn't bump the trailer and scratch.
Putting it back on is easy.  You get a helper to sit on the transom, while you put a 4X4 block, with a throwable cushion between the block and the boat, under the bow.  This lifts the bow just a bit.  You then bring the empty trailer, without the car, and place the center roller under the bow centerline, and connect your winch strap.  The trailer tongue will be about 6 feet in the air.  Have a helper keep the boat steady and level, side to side.  Start cranking the boat onto the trailer, and be careful to keep it headed up the center rollers.  You can maneuver the trailer by moving the tongue left or right.  As the boat first begins to climb onto the trailer, the trailer is actually getting pulled under the boat, as the boat is stationary.  As the boat clears the ground, you will reach a balance point where the tongue will come down.  If you crank too fast, it will come down too fast, as the boat goes past its tipping point.  Crank it up tight, and you have it.
Slow and steady wins the race, as getting it straight on the trailer is important.
Have fun.

Thanks for descriptive directions !!!  

James Titus's picture

Thanks for the sage advice.  I did not do any of my dumb ideas.  The centerboard came out easily in the water with the aid of the main halyard.   Board is repaired and back in the boat.