Transom port specifications & DYI info

Does anyone have any specifications on the placement of the soon to be required transom port. I would like to know where to cut the hole. I have not seen any DYI instructions like I have seen for the required bow flotation bags.

TomT

If you buy the transom port from Harry at Flying Scot, it comes with directions and screws.

If you already have one Dee or Harry would probably fax you directions.

The center of the hole is 6.5" to the left of the center of the transom and 4.25" above the top of the waterline stripe. The groove makes it easy to measure this.

You use a 4.5" hole saw, and the holes for the screws are 7/64" I had to sand the hole to get it nice and smooth, and to enlarge it sightly. Use a good sealant, or resin to seal the glass edges. In this spot you should not hit any wood.

I did mine, and just did another for a fleet member. It's easy.

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

Thanks! I new someone would have the answer. I have marine grade silicone to seal the port. I just want to make sure I drill the hole in the right place.

TomT

quote:[i]Originally posted by TomT[/i]
[br]Does anyone have any specifications on the placement of the soon to be required transom port. I would like to know where to cut the hole. I have not seen any DYI instructions like I have seen for the required bow flotation bags.

TomT

Can I ask what's a transom port?

A 4" round hole in the transom, which can be opened to let water out of a swamped Scot, by towing the boat with a special bridle.

On the FSSA home page it will explain the new rules for transom port and bow flotation that go into effect in early 2009 for sanctioned events.

The spirit is to make it easier to empty a boat that has been swamped after a capsize.

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

quote:[i]Originally posted by sawyerspadre[/i]
[br]A 4" round hole in the transom, which can be opened to let water out of a swamped Scot, by towing the boat with a special bridle.

On the FSSA home page it will explain the new rules for transom port and bow flotation that go into effect in early 2009 for sanctioned events.

The spirit is to make it easier to empty a boat that has been swamped after a capsize.

Hey thanks. Funny, I was wondering exactly that after looking at photos of a swamped-boat drill on another site. Once you get it upright, you gotta get the water out. Makes sense.

The rule changes about ports and bags are linked on the home page here ... that will tell you everything you need to know.

Regards,

Kurt

One bag, one port, and the specs are in the FSSA handbook. The kit from FS Inc, is the easy way to go. The fun part is glassing the blocks into the hull that the straps for the bow bag screw into. I love the smell of fiberglass resin in the morning.

I have done three boats recently with the transom port, it's easy.

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

I put a transome port on my boat in 15 minutes. You can get a 4 inch hole saw at Lowes or HD for under 20 dollars. After cutting the hole, use a little sand paper and widen the hole a fracion. Use 3M Marine 550 to seal it, then drill some pilot holes and screw the tp in place.

The factory suggested port center, 6-1/2 off the centerline, does not work on all boats, because the plywood core backing the motor mount intrudes into that area on some boats. Last year I bought a 4-1/2 saw and it worked fine on 2225. However when we went to add a port to 4141 at the same spot, we cut into the plywood core, which is much deeper and required some fiberglassing to repair. After looking inside the boat, it was clear we should have put the center hole about 1 inch further inboard. This past week we added a port to 4744 using a center 5-1/2 from the middle of the rudder post. If we had followed the factory directions we would have gone into the plywood core again. My recommendation is to measure from inside the boat, and make sure you don't cut into the plywood core.

Gordon
FS2225

not to beat a dead horse here but the simplest thing is to do this at a boat yard right next to another FS. one more thing drill a pilot hole first and check the transom inside to make sure your hole is where you want it to be.

Tom, try this link, which may answer your questions.

http://www.fssa.com/documents/Bowbags_transport.pdf

J. Lott

Transom ports make the boat much easier to empty if the boat is swamped. The bow float bag holds the bow up, so that you have a much better chance of rescuing a swamped boat without a long slow tow.

At big events in windy places, where it is conceivable to have a group of boats capsize within the same time period, the transom port and bow bag make it easier to tow the water out of a swamped boat. The safety boat uses a towing bridle which pulls the swamped Scot to the surface and the water streams out through the port.

This makes rescues much faster, and thus a safety boat can help others more quickly. This makes racing safer.

Apparently new boats have come with them since 1992, which is 15 years before the time they passed the rule. The FSSA then gave two years to get it done.

I did it on my boat and it is easy. A little fiberglass, a hole saw for the port and you are good to go.

If you have boat number 5400, you should already have this stuff. In my opinion, FSSA is catering to safety. I would have put it in, rule or not. It's like a PFD for your boat.

Have fun,

Phil Scheetz
FS 4086

Tom,

Do not automatically use the FS-recommended 6-1/2 inch from centerline measurement. We've done 4 boats in our club, and my old 2225 was the only one where the 6-1/2 measurement was okay.

On three newer boats, all in the 4000 range, the hole should be about 5-1/2 off the centerline. However, don't measure your hole from outside the boat. The only way to be sure is to crawl into the stern and find the centerpoint in the space between the plywood cored areas. That is where you want to put the hole. You do not want the hole to overlap the cored areas. One boat this weekend only had tiny clearance on either side. If we had been 1/2 inch in either direction we would have penetrated the wood core.

Measure the height outside relative to the water line, but then measure that height compared to one of the rudder mounting bolts, which are easily visible from inside the transom, so you can determine the height inside the stern. Start your hole saw drilling from inside, then go outside once you get the centerhole through the hull.

Gordon
FS 2225

Gordon
FS2225

I did hull 3510 using the included instructions. I used a 4 1/8 hole saw, hit no core, and had to file out the hole with a rasp just a little bit. Make sure the the fit is every so slightly loose, otherwise the very weak plastic flange will distort making threading the cap problematic. I mounted with 3m 5200 slow cure and the screws. I saw some people use 4 1/2 hole saw which would probably be easier. Only out of desperation would I do this with a 4" saw even though the instructions say you can.

I drilled a small hole through a protrusion on the inside of the cap and added a lanyard. This lets me feel comfortable leaving the cap loose and also assuring that in the heat of a recovery the cap is not lost.

Frankly I would rather see them use a flap like you find in 470's. I know it isn't for bailing but even so the flap just looks nicer and would be easier to use.

quote:[i]Originally posted by TomT[/i]
[br]Does anyone have any specifications on the placement of the soon to be required transom port. I would like to know where to cut the hole. I have not seen any DYI instructions like I have seen for the required bow flotation bags.

TomT

I just replaced my 20 year old 4 inch ports as the sun had deteriorated these. The new ones needed a 1/4 inch larger hole. There was a paper circle template with the packaging of the new ports and it was relatively simple to follow the pencil outline of the new port with a jigsaw. If I were installing just a single set of ports and had a hand held jigsaw I would not buy a hole cutter. IN ADDITION; My transom ports each have a light lanyard attached to the port covers!! If they are ever used in a swamped boat situation I will not have to worry about losing the port covers. They probably sink . Good luck with the project. FS 3512