Jib Fairlead and Controls

I recently purchased a very early Scot that has the jib sheet fairleads placed very far forward on the cockpit rail, approx 14-15 inches from the front of the cockpit. The fairlead is an old phenolic type block minted on a very short track with only 2-3 inch travel. There is a large Harken rachet turning block mounted on the side deck immediately aft of the fairlead assembly and a cam cleat on the molded rail. My concern is that all these components are mounted very forward; most other Scots have them approx mid-cockpit opening. I'm assuming this design was initially set up expressly for cross-sheeting. I want to update this configuration but am reluctant to drill and fill mounting holes on the deck surfaces. Can anyone render any thoughts or opinions on the existing set-up? Should I just start over and move everything back? Thanx. Paul

Thanks, Ryan. I have seen this link but do not wish to clutter the seat as I frequently sail with multiple passengers.

Is what you have functioning now? Have you sailed with it?

If it is functional and you haven't sailed with it I'd try it as is first to gain experience with that setup. That will help you decide if you end up liking it or not. And if not how you might want to change it.

In my case the boat came with the seat cleating setup. Which before I bought the boat I thought I would like. After spending time with it I didn't like it and re-rigged the jib sheets to move them forward to keep the seats and sides clear.



I have an older Scot that had the same rigging set up you described. Three years ago, it was replaced with a vastly simpler system using the same number of blocks, but with a 2:1 purchase and the decks & seats are now completely clear. Rig the jib with two bullet blocks like they show on the FS Unofficial site. The key is to mount the ratchet-block on the track and bring it across the cockpit. It does not require any seat mounted hardware, so this remains clear. You may add a cam cleat at your discretion on the windward rail (we cleat the jib very rarely, even in heavy air). You can get rid of the deck mounted cleats and ratchet cheek blocks. I've found this to be the simplest, easiest way to handle the jib in the 39 years I've been sailing the Scot.

Question: When rigging the jib sheets in the manner shown on the Unofficial site with the jib bridle and 2:1 purchase, how long should each jib sheet be? I don't see that information mentioned in the descriptions---