Transom port specifications & DYI info

Does anyone have any specifications on the placement of the soon to be required transom port. I would like to know where to cut the hole. I have not seen any DYI instructions like I have seen for the required bow flotation bags. TomT

Comments

If you buy the transom port from Harry at Flying Scot, it comes

If you buy the transom port from Harry at Flying Scot, it comes with directions and screws. If you already have one Dee or Harry would probably fax you directions. The center of the hole is 6.5" to the left of the center of the transom and 4.25" above the top of the waterline stripe. The groove makes it easy to measure this. You use a 4.5" hole saw, and the holes for the screws are 7/64" I had to sand the hole to get it nice and smooth, and to enlarge it sightly. Use a good sealant, or resin to seal the glass edges. In this spot you should not hit any wood. I did mine, and just did another for a fleet member. It's easy. Phil Scheetz FS 4086

Phil Scheetz

FS 4086

Fleet 163, Nockamixon Sail Club

Thanks! I new someone would have the answer.

Thanks! I new someone would have the answer. I have marine grade silicone to seal the port. I just want to make sure I drill the hole in the right place. TomT

TomT

FS4610

quote:[i]Originally posted by TomT[/i] [br]Does anyone have any

quote:
[i]Originally posted by TomT[/i] [br]Does anyone have any specifications on the placement of the soon to be required transom port. I would like to know where to cut the hole. I have not seen any DYI instructions like I have seen for the required bow flotation bags. TomT
Can I ask what's a transom port?

A 4" round hole in the transom, which can be opened to let water

A 4" round hole in the transom, which can be opened to let water out of a swamped Scot, by towing the boat with a special bridle. On the FSSA home page it will explain the new rules for transom port and bow flotation that go into effect in early 2009 for sanctioned events. The spirit is to make it easier to empty a boat that has been swamped after a capsize. Phil Scheetz FS 4086

Phil Scheetz

FS 4086

Fleet 163, Nockamixon Sail Club

quote:[i]Originally posted by sawyerspadre[/i] [br]A 4" round h

quote:
[i]Originally posted by sawyerspadre[/i] [br]A 4" round hole in the transom, which can be opened to let water out of a swamped Scot, by towing the boat with a special bridle. On the FSSA home page it will explain the new rules for transom port and bow flotation that go into effect in early 2009 for sanctioned events. The spirit is to make it easier to empty a boat that has been swamped after a capsize.
Hey thanks. Funny, I was wondering exactly that after looking at photos of a swamped-boat drill on another site. Once you get it upright, you gotta get the water out. Makes sense.

I have seen references to the flotation bag and transom ports (p

I have seen references to the flotation bag and transom ports (plural). Is only one transom port required?

The rule changes about ports and bags are linked on the home pag

The rule changes about ports and bags are linked on the home page here ... that will tell you everything you need to know. Regards, Kurt

Kurt Steinbock

FS 3879

One bag, one port, and the specs are in the FSSA handbook.

One bag, one port, and the specs are in the FSSA handbook. The kit from FS Inc, is the easy way to go. The fun part is glassing the blocks into the hull that the straps for the bow bag screw into. I love the smell of fiberglass resin in the morning. I have done three boats recently with the transom port, it's easy. Phil Scheetz FS 4086

Phil Scheetz

FS 4086

Fleet 163, Nockamixon Sail Club

I put a transome port on my boat in 15 minutes.

I put a transome port on my boat in 15 minutes. You can get a 4 inch hole saw at Lowes or HD for under 20 dollars. After cutting the hole, use a little sand paper and widen the hole a fracion. Use 3M Marine 550 to seal it, then drill some pilot holes and screw the tp in place.

The factory suggested port center, 6-1/2 off the centerline, doe

The factory suggested port center, 6-1/2 off the centerline, does not work on all boats, because the plywood core backing the motor mount intrudes into that area on some boats. Last year I bought a 4-1/2 saw and it worked fine on 2225. However when we went to add a port to 4141 at the same spot, we cut into the plywood core, which is much deeper and required some fiberglassing to repair. After looking inside the boat, it was clear we should have put the center hole about 1 inch further inboard. This past week we added a port to 4744 using a center 5-1/2 from the middle of the rudder post. If we had followed the factory directions we would have gone into the plywood core again. My recommendation is to measure from inside the boat, and make sure you don't cut into the plywood core. Gordon FS2225

not to beat a dead horse here but the simplest thing is to do th

not to beat a dead horse here but the simplest thing is to do this at a boat yard right next to another FS. one more thing drill a pilot hole first and check the transom inside to make sure your hole is where you want it to be.

Does anyone know the rationale for MANDATING transom ports? See

Does anyone know the rationale for MANDATING transom ports? Seems to me this should be owner optional....they have nothing to do with safety, look ugly and the mandate has now put most boats out of compliance...I may have missed it but was there member input solicited on this change ?

Tom, try this link, which may answer your questions.

Tom, try this link, which may answer your questions. http://www.fssa.com/documents/Bowbags_transport.pdf J. Lott

quote:[i]Originally posted by Jay Lott[/i] [br]Tom, try this li

quote:
[i]Originally posted by Jay Lott[/i] [br]Tom, try this link, which may answer your questions. http://www.fssa.com/documents/Bowbags_transport.pdf J. Lott

[quote][i]Originally posted by Tom Scannell[/i] [br][quote][i]O

[quote][i]Originally posted by Tom Scannell[/i] [br][quote][i]Originally posted by Jay Lott[/i] [br]Tom, try this link, which may answer your questions. http://www.fssa.com/documents/Bowbags_transport.pdf J. Lott Thanks but the facts are that TP's have been standard only since the last five years or so.....so now the owner of boat Number 1234 (or 5400..ME), who never sails off his lake is now out of compliance and never got a chance to opine since he didnt sail at the NAC's and probably never will...seems a little heavy handed to me.....FSSA is catering to the rockstars

Transom ports make the boat much easier to empty if the boat is

Transom ports make the boat much easier to empty if the boat is swamped. The bow float bag holds the bow up, so that you have a much better chance of rescuing a swamped boat without a long slow tow. At big events in windy places, where it is conceivable to have a group of boats capsize within the same time period, the transom port and bow bag make it easier to tow the water out of a swamped boat. The safety boat uses a towing bridle which pulls the swamped Scot to the surface and the water streams out through the port. This makes rescues much faster, and thus a safety boat can help others more quickly. This makes racing safer. Apparently new boats have come with them since 1992, which is 15 years before the time they passed the rule. The FSSA then gave two years to get it done. I did it on my boat and it is easy. A little fiberglass, a hole saw for the port and you are good to go. If you have boat number 5400, you should already have this stuff. In my opinion, FSSA is catering to safety. I would have put it in, rule or not. It's like a PFD for your boat. Have fun, Phil Scheetz FS 4086

Phil Scheetz

FS 4086

Fleet 163, Nockamixon Sail Club

Tom, Do not automatically use the FS-recommended 6-1/2 inch

Tom, Do not automatically use the FS-recommended 6-1/2 inch from centerline measurement. We've done 4 boats in our club, and my old 2225 was the only one where the 6-1/2 measurement was okay. On three newer boats, all in the 4000 range, the hole should be about 5-1/2 off the centerline. However, don't measure your hole from outside the boat. The only way to be sure is to crawl into the stern and find the centerpoint in the space between the plywood cored areas. That is where you want to put the hole. You do not want the hole to overlap the cored areas. One boat this weekend only had tiny clearance on either side. If we had been 1/2 inch in either direction we would have penetrated the wood core. Measure the height outside relative to the water line, but then measure that height compared to one of the rudder mounting bolts, which are easily visible from inside the transom, so you can determine the height inside the stern. Start your hole saw drilling from inside, then go outside once you get the centerhole through the hull. Gordon FS 2225 Gordon FS2225

I just replaced my 20 year old 4 inch ports as the sun had deter

I just replaced my 20 year old 4 inch ports as the sun had deteriorated these. The new ones needed a 1/4 inch larger hole. There was a paper circle template with the packaging of the new ports and it was relatively simple to follow the pencil outline of the new port with a jigsaw. If I were installing just a single set of ports and had a hand held jigsaw I would not buy a hole cutter. IN ADDITION; My transom ports each have a light lanyard attached to the port covers!! If they are ever used in a swamped boat situation I will not have to worry about losing the port covers. They probably sink . Good luck with the project. FS 3512