vang and jib

Would like your thoughts about a couple things: 1. Joe Sampson's rigging (at the unofficial scot site) of the vang seems the simplest and most logical approach. You can access it from the rail and the rigging is simple. Would any of you agree or have a better way? 2. How is it a big advantage to have the jib blocks on the seats? I know winners do it, and Kelly Gough says it makes it easier to release the jib sheet from its cleat. Perhaps, but it makes it more difficult to re-cleat from the rail, does it not? And when the boat is heeling a bit when racing, how is it a big deal to uncleat the jib sheet from the block on the side deck anyway? What are we missing, or is it more simply convention? And what about going from the side deck block down to the centerboard trunk for cleating the jib sheet? Please advise fellow sailors!!

Comments

Frank, I have done it both ways.

Frank, I have done it both ways. I have sailed FS1342 for 30 years with centerboard cleating, and with the right cleats(old short Mariner swivel cleats) I have found it superior to seat cleating, especially with a crew with out a lot of strength. Going 2;1 on the jib sheeting with 1/4 inch sheets makes the job even easier. My second boat, FS3532, recently sold had seat cleating. The crew found it more difficult to both cleat and uncleat the jib sheets. We usually race with 2 so CB cleating is not as big a problem asa when you race with 2. I find in very light winds and beating when both of us are on the leeward side, CB cleating allows the skipper to steer and handle the jib sheets at the same time great help in keeping the boat driving Jack F Stewart FS1342 Alliance, OH

Hey Frank: I have a cascading vang, that is cleated on the to

Hey Frank: I have a cascading vang, that is cleated on the top of the centerboard case, with a Ronstan cleat, RF5 I think. You can tension the vang very easily from the rail, and you can stay powered and tune the vang. The old setup I had was so bad that I had to stand in the middle of the boat to tension it, which is exactly what you don't want to do if you are feeling a little overpowered. I set it up basically like the Kelly Gough setup decribed on the unofficial site. It's really cool, how you can feel the rig get slippery through the wind when the vang is tuned to the right point. Since you are out on the rail, and you don't have to sheet out the main at all to tension it, you can see and feel when it's right, more easily. On the jib sheets, I went to 2:1 and 1/4 inch Trophy braid. This makes it much easier to hold the sheet and trim it more actively, when you are powered. I still use the original cross-cockpit jib sheets, which in some ways means that the jib is cleated less often. This more active tuning of the jib seems to be work well. The only pain about the cross-sheeting is that it get's in the way when moving about the cockpit, but that seems to be more of a concern when daysailing. Since the jib cleats right next to where you sit on the rail, when it's windy, it is very easy to release if conditons get rowdy. With the 1/4 inch lines, I would recommend gloves for your crew. If you want to take a look, I will be around the lake quite a bit next season. Phil Scheetz FS 4086

Phil Scheetz

FS 4086

Fleet 163, Nockamixon Sail Club