Jib Block repair

The port side jib block pulled loose. It was fastened using log screws (about 2.5") into whatever material is below the fiberglass. This is a 4000 series. I am inclined to reseat the screws using a filled epoxy, but I'm not sure what material holds the screws. I would appreciate any info from anyone who has done this repair. Any idea what is used below the fiberglass? Is it strong enough to prevent another pull-out?

Comments

I have the same issue.

I have the same issue. From what I have seen on here, the screws have nuts on the bottom side. To get to them you have to go above the foam blocks behind the seat. Sounds like cutting the fiberglas straps that hold the foam in is one way, or cutting the foam in half. Hopefully I will get a chance to tackle mine in a few months (both sides) FS 1385

I have boat 4086 from Douglass, and Dee at the factory was able

I have boat 4086 from Douglass, and Dee at the factory was able to tell me that mine has self tapping screws into a wood block that is glassed into the deck. If you use thickened epoxy I would bet you would have a good job. If you call Dee or Harry, I am sure they could advise you. The older boats, as Corsa refers to, had nuts under the deck, above the foam flotation that are difficult to get to. We used to repair snow skis, with binding screws pulled out, with a mixture of steel wool and epoxy, which was extremely strong. Steel wool is not a good bet for a boat, as the end of the steel fibers may rust. If you, very carefully, drilled the hole slightly larger, fill it with a mix of epoxy resin with chopped-up fiberglass, then let it cure and re-drill your holes, your probably all set. Be careful not to drill through the block, if you decide to enlarge the hole, and be sure the drill bit you use to re-drill is only slightly smaller that the screws, so you don't split your epoxy plug. Also countersinking the gelcoat slightly helps to keep the gelcoat from cracking. The other alternative is to fill your old holes with epoxy, sand it smooth and drill new holes slightly in front or aft of the old holes. I think the rules are OK with this, as long as your jib tracks don't change position. Phil Scheetz FS 4086

Phil Scheetz

FS 4086

Fleet 163, Nockamixon Sail Club

Any idea when they started glassing in the block underneath?? If

Any idea when they started glassing in the block underneath?? If I can avoid chopping things up under the seats, that would be nice. FS 1385

I think Dee at FS said around #4000 was when they started to use

I think Dee at FS said around #4000 was when they started to use the self tapping screws on the Douglas boats. I don't know if there were still any other builders at that point, which would have been around 1984, but Dee or Harry at Flying Scot could tell you. Phil Scheetz FS 4086

Phil Scheetz

FS 4086

Fleet 163, Nockamixon Sail Club

I fixed the problem.

I fixed the problem. The original installation used hardwood under the glass deck. Three #10 2 inch screws were used to hold the block. Water seepage along the threads eventually deteriorated the wood, so the screws pulled out. At the suggestion of the manufacturer I filled the stripped holes with Marine-Tex, which is a filled 2-part epoxy. A small kit (2 oz.) is more than adequate for the three holes. The mixed epoxy has a consistancy of a loose putty. I used a long thin bolt to pack the holes with the putty. Packing assured the holes were completely filled. Marine-Tex is workable for about 25 minutes around 80F. It is hard enough after 24 hrs to drill. The temperature should be over 70F for reasonably quick hardening. When the screws were re-installed I coated the upper threads and under the heads with marine quality silicon sealant. So far the fix has performed great.