Removing a Scot from the trailer on land

TAKING A FLYING SCOT OFF OF TRAILER I decided to take my Scot off of the trailer to do general maintenance, install larger outside center rollers (to keep bow from digging into roller support,) install a Keelshield, Name, and General cleaning and inspection of the boat. Set up a support on the stern with the wheel of the tongue at LOWEST Position I used a 4X4 with some wedges… Crank wheel of trailer tongue until you have stern resting on 4X4’s. Set up a Temporary bow support with a strong 4”X4”X8’ (minimum), 2 Hydraulic Jacks and some cribbing. You will need at least 9 inches of lift to clear trailer. Lift the Bow with the jacks as evenly as possible and you should be able to pull trailer out by hand. Be careful not to hit your Bow support!!! If you feel you do not have enough lift do not worry. When you get the trailer forward you can rest 4X4 on trailer boards and add another piece of cribbing to get more lift. After Trailer is clear, put a solid firm Bow support under center line of boat, forward of centerboard….AT NO TIME GO UNDER THE BOAT UNTIL THIS SUPPORT IS IN PLACE! (In case the jacks shift!) The entire process cost me about $30 in materials (providing you have 2 jacks and once I figured out my game plan I was finished inside of 30 minutes. Recommendations: • Save the set-up and you can pull it off trailer quicker then you can setup for sail • Bottle Jacks I feel will work the best and they are relatively cheap $15 each at Sears. (Sears item #00950280000 Mfr. model #50280). You will need 2. • Any Questions or pictures (in Microsoft Word Format) you may email me at parrotheadz@comcast.net Flying Scot #5452

Comments

I recently did some work to the bottom of my boat.

I recently did some work to the bottom of my boat. A member of my fleet said he launched his boat on to the ground similar to launching at a ramp. I tried it and it worked great, I do have a tilting trailer. I put a blanket on the ground where the stern would land on it and pushed it off the trailer. The bow was still part way on the trailer so you slowly drive the trailer forward until the boat clears the back roller. I used this method because I wanted to roll the boat over on its side to work on it. That is easily done as well by stepping the mast and using a line attached to the mast near the shrounds to pull it on its side. It was surprisingly easy to do.

I have heard of "launching" the boat onto a big piece of styrofo

I have heard of "launching" the boat onto a big piece of styrofoam from Home Depot, the kind you would normally use for insulation. I haven't tried it yet, but would like to try it this spring. Any tips? Does anybody know if the boat still stay up on its gunwale, with just the weight of the mast on the ground? Phil Scheetz FS 4086

Phil Scheetz

FS 4086

Fleet 163, Nockamixon Sail Club

I've had the boat on it's gunnel using the mast for leverage to

I've had the boat on it's gunnel using the mast for leverage to tip her. To keep her on side I used two 16"x8" concrete building blocks tied with 1/2 rope to the shroud hounds. I had the boat on her side for several days and didn't want to strain the mast so I made two 4x4 braces to wedge between the hull near the c/b slot and the ground when not working on it so I could let off on the block ropes. She looked like an ugly duckling before that and a swan after[:D]

When the boat is tipped on its side it will rest and remain in p

When the boat is tipped on its side it will rest and remain in place at a point just before the mast reaches horizontal. That is when the flared part of the hull where it meets the deck comes in contact with the ground. It will rest there but it would not take much force to start the boat swinging (violently) back to an upright position. I secured the line I had used to tip the boat to my trailer which was parked along side to be sure the boat would not move.

When "launching" my Scot onto the ground, the back of the traile

When "launching" my Scot onto the ground, the back of the trailer dug into the ground. I mounted a couple extra rollers I had UNDER the trailer at the back edge. Realy helped when pulling the trailer out from under and when winching it back on. And of course you can lay the boat down in shallow water if you want to do something underneath, just need to tie the mast to something like a dock. David Love the Flying Scot

I spread a tarp in the lawn and slowly moved the trailer forward

I spread a tarp in the lawn and slowly moved the trailer forward as I eased the boat off. As it neared the bow I placed an old tire under the bow. That kept it high enough to clear the trailer. When I tilted the boat on its side, by pulling on the halyard with the mast raised, I placed another old tire under the edge of the hull near the chain plate. That seemed to go well.

I ended up using the lifting bridle connected to a backhoe.

I ended up using the lifting bridle connected to a backhoe. I know that sounds like cheating. I got all the bottom paint off with acetone and then got a ride into the air on the spinnaker halyard, as the boat became upright a little fast on the grass. It was exciting. Phil Scheetz FS 4086

Phil Scheetz

FS 4086

Fleet 163, Nockamixon Sail Club

A variation on the topic; does anyone know how long it is safe t

A variation on the topic; does anyone know how long it is safe to keep the boat off the trailer and possibly rolled on her side? I know the trailer is designed to support the boat's displacement better than when she's not on a trailer. I am planning to redo the bottom of my boat this fall. I have little bubbles all over the bottom. At first I thought I had a major delamination problem, but upon closer inspection it's the paint that bubbled not the gelcoat or fiber glass. It appears that someone might have used auto paint on it as opposed to a marine epoxy (I read somewhere that auto paint on boats does this). I've taken the boat off the trailer on land before, using straw bales as the cushion. I plan to do it again, only this time roll the boat on her side to sand off the old paint, repair a few scratches and repaint with a 2 part expoxy. My concern is damaging the boat by leaving it off the trailer for too long and/or on her side. Bruce FS2777
Bruce FS 5600

I've done this many times off non-tilt trailers, both the older

I've done this many times off non-tilt trailers, both the older high trailers and the newer low aluminum trailer. 1. Select an area of soft lawn, preferably with a tree or post within 10 feet of where the stern will be. 2. Step the mast and tighten the rig using the jib halyard to the bow eye or the jib tack fitting. 3. Place a cushion under the stern where it will hit the ground.You can also put down a tarp or blanket. 4. Tie a stout line from both stern rings around the tree. Tighten this line. 5. Release the winch line and raise the front of the trailer slightly while pulling it forward. The stern line will get the boat started off the trailer. When the stern will hit the ground, lever the trailer and pull to complete the slide off. 6. The back roller braces may tend to dig into the ground, so constant levering is needed. Take care that the trailer is not allowed to spring up and hit you in this process. The boat will eventually come off and sit nicely on the ground. To roll the boat, place several cushions or a folded quilt about 18" away from the boat along the side you are going to roll toward. This is for the rail to rest on. Tie a long line in a loose loop around the mast. Hook the main halyard to this loop and crank it up to the shroud attachment. Lock the winch... back away from the boat and pull it over. Place a weight on the top of the mast to keep it on the ground. Getting the boat back on the trailer is reverse of the off-loading. Release the tree line. Put the end roller under the bow, connect the winch and crank while levering the trailer to keep it from digging into the ground. Bob New FS 5143 Merritt Island Florida Fleet Captain Fleet 179 Bob New FS 5143 Merritt Island Florida Fleet Captain Fleet 179