general boat configuration info

Submitted by todd on Thu, 04/01/2004 - 22:52
I bought a 1983 scot and it has an access port in the transom on the port side. I have seen that this aids in recovery but how? I thougt it would be good to have to put the drain plug in but that goes on the outside. I also noticed the floatation under the seat was glassed in. Is this a good thing or a bad thing. I plan to sail the boat this year, and remove the fading bottom paint and reseat the hardware over the winter. It also needs a new centerboard gasket and some running rigging. I am most curious about the hull items (glassed floatation and transom access port). The rest is all strighforward.
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Comments

The glassed-in flotation under the seat is normal.

Submitted by Claus on Fri, 04/02/2004 - 09:32.
The glassed-in flotation under the seat is normal. That's how the builder keeps the flotation up under the seat. That flotation is only used when the boat is swamped (full of water) to keep it up and floating without turteling all the time, which would happen if all that flotation would be at the bottom of the boat and the boat was swamped. The access port is opened if your boat is being towed by a motor boat after it got swamped. This allows the majority of water to escape while being towed. You also could use it to manually swamp your boat. [;)] Happy sailing and remember the winter is pretty much over so get working. [;)]
Claus FS5074 Ames, IA |

Claus, The acess port is thru bolted and sealed.

Submitted by todd on Fri, 04/02/2004 - 11:53.
Claus, The acess port is thru bolted and sealed. Have you seen any that are glassed in? I would like to see that rather than a thru bolted one. Also with the glassed in floatation, I was wondering how to see and get to the backing plates on the spin and jib blocks on the deck.

Todd: To access the backing plates you will need to detach one o

Submitted by Bob41 on Sat, 04/03/2004 - 10:03.
Todd: To access the backing plates you will need to detach one of the fiberglass straps holding the foam billets in place and slide it out of your way. Then, assume a notably uncomfortable position lying on the bottom of the boat and reaching up. In my case, the the foam was split in the middle so I only had to slide one of them. To re-fasten the strap I used actetone to clean the bonding surface and applied resin and mat to stick it back in place. I used a 3/4" screw to hold the strap in place while the new glass set-up. For some reason, Wasps love to build nests up in there, so I got a big suprise when I was upgrading my jib blocks.

Bob, Thanks for the tip.

Submitted by todd on Sat, 04/03/2004 - 11:54.
Bob, Thanks for the tip. I will be weary of any stowaways when I get to this. Any suggestions for revarnishing the tabernacle? I am looking for product suggestions and proceedures.

Todd: I refinished my tabernacle with #80 to #100 sandpaper and

Submitted by Bob41 on Mon, 04/05/2004 - 11:04.
Todd: I refinished my tabernacle with #80 to #100 sandpaper and spar varnish I had handy. Other members may be able to suggest better products, like the WEST system, maybe. While focused on the tabernacle I found that the bolts along its bottom needed retightening. I changed them for slightly larger bolts, used fender washers to spread the impact on the wood, and used Nyloc nuts. That seemed to stiffen things. Wasps like to get back there, too.

I removed my tabernacle from the boat.

Submitted by Bruce177 on Tue, 04/06/2004 - 00:22.
I removed my tabernacle from the boat. I found the wood, mahogany we believe, to be in need of care, I removed the paint which had been covering it with paint remover, sanded her down with 80 and 120 grit. I found a few punky spots on both sides. I cut out the worst spots, replaced the interior pieces with new mahogany and soaked both halves in Clear Penetrating Epoxy for several hours. After a few days, it was dry enough to fill cracks, screw holes, cutouts and refair the winch shaft holes with thickened West System epoxy. The final result was a solid rehabed piece of work. The surface was darkened by the process and I decided against varnishing ( although my 1st intent was to varnish). I layed on a coat of Interlux Pre-kote primer and then two coats of Matterhorn white poly. The paint adheres very well to the CPES base and is a rather tough finish. Reglassing and new SS through bolts with fender washers and aircraft nuts made it one tough cookie. It looks good too. The only varnished trim I can come up with is the C/B cleat block on the trunk and the ash tiller.[8D]

Thanks guys, I thought the tabernacle was glassed into the hu

Submitted by todd on Sat, 04/10/2004 - 01:18.
Thanks guys, I thought the tabernacle was glassed into the hull. I am real skiddish about cutting out fiberglassed members aminly because I have never worked with fiberglass. I understand the application of directional fiber, but I am not confident of my regalssing skills. Does the tablernacle need to come out? thanks for all the good info.

The factory used to use Interlux Schooner Varnish to protect the

Submitted by jfssail on Sat, 04/24/2004 - 08:10.
The factory used to use Interlux Schooner Varnish to protect the wood parts on the Scot. It is a spar varnish with UV filters added. Z-Spar Captains Varnish would be equilavent.

Todd: If your tabernacle is still solidly glassed to the hull an

Submitted by Bob41 on Sat, 04/24/2004 - 11:44.
Todd: If your tabernacle is still solidly glassed to the hull and the bottom edges have no rot there should be no real need to pull the thing. I didn't remove mine though that meant some degree of crawling around in tight spaces but as long as I was I replaced the dishpans, excuse me, I meant hanging lockers, under the deck.