older scot: rudder angle, jib track questions

I enjoyed participating in my first race with restored and newly rigged FS 1632 yesterday. We experienced moderate weather helm while beating in 8-12 mph.  Sails are older Nichols but not evidently blown out (I'm guessing loose rig cut but no information on that).  I'm familiar with sail trim goals (cunningham to pull draft forward, using vang to avoid oversheeting main) and the need to hike and/or ease main to keep the boat flat in gusts, but these efforts didn't seem to help the helm much. 

I'm planning to measure mast rake and borrow a tension gauge in the near future, which may help.  Also on the list is shimming centerboard. 

But I was looking at the rudder and wondered if the angle might be an issue.  I've had the experience of rudders on other boats kicking up partially when we run into weeds etc., and it produced a weather helm effect. If you see from the picture, it's angled back about ten degrees. The small notch visible in the upper forward edge of the exposed aluminum also seemed suspicious, as if it had been modified. 

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Relatedly, I read in Scots and Water about one sailor upgrading from the outdated (long) jib tracks.  I don't want to replace mine, but I am curious as to how much shorter new tracks are and whether I should be using the forward or the after portion of my long tracks.

Thanks for any advice, and happy sailing!

 

Ken

FS 1632

 

 

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Comments

Rudder and Jib Track

Your rudder blade may have been modified. Awhile ago the believe was that a straighter rudder blade was better so someone cut more of a notch to allow it to become straighter. This also gives you more lee helm. The suggested dimension is 5.1/2 inches from the inside tip of the rudder to the verticle line of the stern. Once you find this postition you can pin the blade by drilling a hole. Having the blade too verticle does not allow you to feel the helm and make other adjustments in sail trim. This can lead to broken rudder blades. 

You Jib track is OK. Flying Scot shortened it awhile ago. In heavy air you would move your jib leads back to open the leach and spill air. However I can never think of moving them that far back. I would just leave them and know you have a classic. 

As far as your weather helm, it is probally mast rake. A normal snug rig uses a measurement of about 28.5 inches from the top of the mast to the top of the curve at the stern. This is accomplished by adjusting your shrouds. After that tighten your headstay to 80 to 110 lbs. You need a guage for this or take all the slack out and then some more. Another way to check or double check the 28.5 measurement is to take your jib halyard and bring it down to the deck just infront of the mast. Lock it down at this length. The bring it up to the forestay and measure between the end of the jib halyard (along the forestay) and the deck. It should be 16 inches. Again this is afjusted by the shrouds not making the headstay tighter or looser. 

Check North Sailing tuning guide or other Sail makers websites. They are all similar. 

Hope this helps and gets you started. Also search the Flying Scot Website for tips. 

Dave

Dave

5339

Eustis Florida

rudder blade misaligned

So the forward blade on my rudder is seven inches off the transom, and 6 inches off a line parallel to the forward edge of the rudder cheek.

https://goo.gl/photos/owdZcaRkzBV8X2qh6

I guess I need to adjust it!